Incubation periods by species
| Species | Days to hatch | Lockdown on day | Temp (forced air) | Humidity → lockdown |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chicken | 21 | 18 | 99.5°F | 45–55% → 65%+ |
| Coturnix quail | 17–18 | 15 | 99.5°F | 45% → 65%+ |
| Bobwhite quail | 23 | 20 | 99.5°F | 45% → 65%+ |
| Duck | 28 | 25 | 99.5°F | 55% → 70%+ |
| Muscovy duck | 35 | 31 | 99.5°F | 55% → 70%+ |
| Turkey | 28 | 25 | 99.5°F | 50–55% → 65%+ |
| Goose | 28–32 | 27 | 99.5°F | 55% → 70%+ |
| Guinea fowl | 26–28 | 24 | 99.5°F | 45–55% → 65%+ |
Temperatures above are for forced-air incubators (with a fan). For still-air incubators, run about 2°F warmer — 101.5°F measured at the top of the eggs — because still air stratifies.
The three moments that decide your hatch rate
1. The first week: stable heat, regular turning
Most embryo losses happen from temperature spikes in week one. Run the incubator empty for 24 hours before setting eggs to verify it holds steady. Turn eggs at least 3 times a day (an odd number, so eggs don't rest on the same side every night) — or let an automatic turner handle it. Set eggs pointy-end down if your incubator holds them upright.
2. Candling: knowing what's alive
Candle in a dark room with a bright flashlight against the egg's fat end. On the first candling (day 7 for chickens) a live embryo shows a spider of blood vessels and often a visible heartbeat; a clear egg is infertile and a blood ring means early death — remove both, since dead eggs can rot and burst. The second candling (day 14) should show a large dark mass and an air cell that has grown; remove anything unchanged since day 7.
3. Lockdown: hands off
Three days before hatch, stop turning, raise humidity to 65%+ (70%+ for waterfowl), and close the lid. The chick is positioning for hatch — turning now disorients it, and every lid-opening drops humidity and can shrink-wrap a pipped chick in its membrane. Hatching takes 24+ hours from the first pip: the chick pips, rests for up to 12 hours (this is normal — don't "help"), then unzips the shell in one push. Leave chicks in the incubator until fully dry and fluffy; they can stay up to 24–48 hours on yolk reserves.
FAQ
My eggs are a day late — is the hatch lost?
Not yet. Slightly low average temperature delays hatch by a day or two (slightly high advances it). Give chicken eggs until day 23 before giving up, and candle before discarding anything.
Can I incubate shipped eggs?
Yes, but let them rest pointy-end down for 12–24 hours before setting so detached air cells can settle, and expect a lower hatch rate (50% on shipped eggs is considered good; 80%+ is typical for local fresh eggs).
How long can I store eggs before incubating?
Hatchability stays strong for about 7 days if eggs are stored at 55–65°F, pointy-end down, turned once daily. After 10 days, hatch rates decline noticeably.
Should I help a chick out of the shell?
Almost never. A chick that pipped less than 24 hours ago is resting and absorbing blood from the membrane — "helping" too early causes fatal bleeding. Only consider assisting after 24+ hours with no progress, and research assisted hatching first.